[ausev] Trike conversion: Circuit Question.

jefoy at mindspring.com jefoy at mindspring.com
Wed Nov 8 14:33:48 GMT 2006


Mike,

Your approach makes a lot of sense. In any type of vehicle application (beyond the obvious saftey concerns) the first consideration should be reliability. To that end, simplicity is always desirable, any reduction in the number of switches a system uses is one less potential failure point.

Consider using a non-linear potentiometer for the throttle control. In essence it is exactly what you have proposed without the switch. The taper can be specified such that the first 3/4 of the throttle has a mostly linear response but operates over only half the control range. The final 1/4 can control the remaining range. 

This is sort of backwards to the way some Generic Motors cars are set up. For many of their later offerings, the throttle is set up so the first 1/4 pedal travel accounts for 1/2 the available thottle opening. It seems a marketing gimick designed to give the impression of a large powerful engine. For me it just makes the car hard to drive smoothly at low speeds..

Jack

-----Original Message-----
>From: MLAB <info at easystreetrecumbents.com>
>Sent: Nov 8, 2006 7:27 AM
>To: AustinEV News Announcements and General Discussion <ausev at austinev.org>
>Subject: Re: [ausev] Trike conversion:  Circuit Question.
>
>jtp wrote:
>
>>In the circuit design of this Electric Motorcycle,
>> Would it be feasible to have a "Passing Battery"
>>linked into two DPDT (if they exist) contactors in order to provide more
>>voltage temporarily if one needed to accelerate and merge into traffic more
>>safely utilizing another battery such as the momentary use of the Auxiliary
>>12 volt battery, while isolating the contactors, etc,  with a small sealed
>>gel, or small array of LI-ION nano-phosphates, for the 10 second boost
>>stage?
>>Would the controller  be able to take a surge and pulse as well?
>>Dan.
>>
>
>Consider this approach...
>
>Spec the battery voltage and motor winding to be capable of going up to 
>your desired "turbo" speed.  Then alter the signal to your throttle to 
>get the behavior that you want. 
>
>For example, usually, your throttle would be biased to only take you up 
>to part of your top speed (let's say half).  That way, you will have 
>finer control in that range of speeds, which would correspond to real 
>traffic conditions, such as stop and go gridlock or being stuck behind a 
>bicycle on a narrow 2-lane road.  When merging onto the expressway, you 
>hit the booster and the throttle would take you over your whole range 
>(with 0 still being 0, so that accidentally hitting the booster while 
>not on the throttle would not make the vehicle jump).  Then you could 
>operate in that range, with less precise control but a higher top speed.
>
>That way, all your batteries would still be available at normal speeds, 
>meaning each battery wouldn't have to work as hard and would discharge 
>evenly, and accessing turbo speeds would only require doing switches on 
>the low power throttle lines.
>
>-- 
>Mike Librik, LCI #929
>Easy Street Recumbents
>(512) 453-0438
>45th and Red River Streets, thereabouts
>Central Austin
>info at easystreetrecumbents.com
>www.easystreetrecumbents.com
>www.urbancycling.com
>
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