[ausev] Thanks for the intro to EV workshop...

Mark Hastings evblazer at yahoo.com
Mon Mar 12 16:27:38 GMT 2007


As you mentioned the issue is current. In my
experience under normal situations my DC/DC converters
can easily handle the normal current. But when you hit
the brakes and the vaccum pump goes off for the brake
booster while your radio is already up high and your
lights are on the surge current is too high and the
battery is there to keep the voltage up.

This could happen from the input end too. Depending on
the DC/DC when your main pack itself is under heavy
load such as during brisk accelleration on the last
few miles of your range the voltage could drop to too
low and the DC/DC would drop out.
 
Batteries also provide a bit of backup. In case your
DC/DC does go out you have a little bit of power to
hopefully get you where your going or to safety. If
your main pack fuse goes or something happens you can
glide off the road with at least your blinkers and
vacuum pump and then have flashers until you get your
road flares out.

My old EV pickup had a DC/DC, solar and a pretty small
agm. Ran for years without a problem until the guy I
sold it to dollied it away and the transmission and
motor blew up. Yes the drive shaft should have been
removed :-(


--- Brian Lasseter <blasseter.cmpe01 at gtalumni.org>
wrote:

> I learned a lot, and enjoyed meeting the people
> behind the emails at
> the "Intro to EV workshop" on Sunday.
> 
> I had a question pop into my mind after I left the
> workshop however...
> 
> If you have a DC/DC converter...  Then why do you
> need a regular car
> battery to power the lights/horn/fans/stereo?  Would
> you be able to
> power it all off of the DC/DC converter directly?
> 
> Maybe there isn't enough current in the DC/DC
> converter to do that
> directly... Anyways, I just thought I'd throw out a
> newbie question.
> 
> 
> -- 
> TTFN,
> Brian "Lasso" Lasseter
> 
>   ·  (512)736-1677  ·  AIM:digininja  ·  ICQ:2238123
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> 
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