[ausev] GE 11.5 inch motor

[loopcat]

Great! Now it's time to find a good donor car. I'm
leaning towards a BMW/saab/volvo station wagon. That
should give enough space and strength for the
batteries. I thinking that a compact car might be too
small for this motor. Any thoughts on a good
make/model?
Thanks, John..   
--- Sarah & Erik <electricbasset at gmail.com> wrote:

> Cool motor! The pictures of the commutator were a
> little hard to see
> and they always are. As far as I could see it looks
> pretty good. A
> couple things to look for-
> 
> put a finger on a brush and rotate the motor and
> feel for any clicks.
> This will be a raised commutator bar
> 
> Look over the comm for even coloring
> 
> Check the brushes to make sure they're in good
> shape, no chipped corners
> 
> Also feel the commutator for raised or sharp edges.
> 
> Measure the resistance between the case and
> something in the normal
> current path. It should be quite high.
> 
> If you take your motor in to a motor shop before you
> install it they
> can turn and groove the commutator and clean things
> up if they need
> it, but from the pictures your motor looks pretty
> good. Keep us
> posted! If you do find anything you want fixed on
> your comm, take it
> to a motor shop. I bought some of the light comm
> stones and tried to
> even things up myself, and ended up making things
> worse.
> 
> Erik
> 
> 
> On Jan 1, 2008 6:01 PM, Chris Robison
> <chris at chrisrobison.org> wrote:
> > loopcat wrote:
> > > Hey All,
> > >  I took Chris R's advise and posted the motor
> pictures
> > > to Flickr.com
> > > Here is the link..
> > >
> > > http://flickr.com/photos/22369075@N07/
> >
> > Awesome. As I've recently discovered while trying
> to take post-mortem
> > photos of Farver's dearly departed (hopefully
> repairable?) 10.7" Kostov,
> > taking color-accurate pictures of a commutator is
> *really* hard. I'm
> > going to guess that yours is still in good shape,
> from what little
> > texture I can see in the photos.
> >
> > One thing I'm noticing -- the motor may be rated
> for its intended
> > service at 70 volts, but by looking at the comm
> bars, it appears to be
> > capable of handling much higher voltage without
> damage (of course,
> > you'll need a battery pack sized to match it).
> Each of those comm bar
> > separators gives you about 35 volts of dielectric
> separation, assuming
> > typical construction. So from brush edge to
> adjacent brush edge, count
> > them up and do the math. Any higher voltage than
> your result, and you
> > risk fireballing the commutator, but below that is
> reliable territory.
> > You may get much more horsepower out of this motor
> than we've been
> > thinking. The only limitation will be heating, and
> that will be
> > determined by how the motor is wound.
> >
> > >
> > > One thing that concerns me, looks like the
> armature is
> > > touching the winding a little. I hear a light
> "woosh"
> > > sound as I hand turn the shaft. Is this normal?
> Any
> > > advice would be welcome.
> > > Thanks again, John in SA..
> >
> > The *whoosh* is completely normal. It's the sound
> of the brushes
> > dragging on the commutator, which they will always
> do. It's one of the
> > characteristics of a brushed DC motor, and the
> difference between DC and
> > AC induction motors. On the other hand, the
> Siemens AC drive systems
> > from MetricMind produce an intense very high-pitch
> whine due to their
> > choice of PWM frequency for the inverter, so I
> guess the whoosh is nice
> > in comparison.  :o)
> >
> > My Warp 13 actually makes a whoosh with a squeak
> in the background,
> > which might go away once its broken in and the
> brown patina has formed
> > on the comm bars. Either way, I'm going to guess
> that my differential
> > will be significantly louder.  :o)
> >
> >    --chris
> >
> >
> >
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> > AusEV at austinev.org
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> >
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> 



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