[ausev] Questions for the pros

[Rob]

Michael,

My own experience suggests that you'd be pushing it.  Best I got the RAVolt
to do was 30+ but I'm heavier than a Neon.  I'm confident that you could get
DC Pb conversion do this if you beef up the suspension and run over the GVW
with lots of lead.  However, you may find the you lose the range after a
year months of driving and you'll be short.  In the winter you'll also lose
range from the cold.  Remember that Pb batteries fade so your return drive
will be sluggish if you are at the end of your range.

Have you considered an AC system?  If your top speed is limited then you'd
be able to go direct and avoid the transmission loss.  You'd also get a
small boost from regenerative braking with an AC system.

Rob

-----Original Message-----
From: ausev-bounces at austinev.org [mailto:ausev-bounces at austinev.org] On
Behalf Of Michael Bonard
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 6:12 PM
To: AustinEV News Announcements and General Discussion
Subject: [ausev] Questions for the pros


Dear Austin EV members,

My name is Michael Bonard and I am writing from Maryland, in the 
Washington, DC suburbs.

I have started a conversion of an 2000 Plymouth Neon (2564 pounds curb 
weight with ICE) and I am looking for recommendations from the pros. 
Austin EV seems to be the most active group of EV conversion 
enthusiasts, and this is why I am sending you this message.

The "mission requirement" for my conversion calls for a 34 mile total 
commute (round trip), mostly flat, top speeds no higher than 45 mph. I 
would like to reach a 40 miles target to have some safety margin. I have
determined the preliminary system composition: 144 V system; FB1 4001 DC
Motor; and the rest TBD.

I have the following questions:

- Range: do you think that a 40 mile range could be realistically 
expected with a 144V system using lead acid flooded batteries, which I 
understand offer the least cost per kWh today?

- Batteries: what type, manufacturer and make of batteries would you 
recommend in a 144 V system?

- Battery boxes: Is there an alternate acceptable solution to welding of 
the battery boxes to the frame? I am not a welder but I can cut steel 
angles and drill holes for nuts and bolts holding

- Instrumentation: should I reuse the original ICE harness to connect 
the speedometer to the existing on board computer? I assume that I will 
have to remove the bulbs in the car instrument panel because with all 
the ICE sensors removed, there will be lots of alarms showing up! What 
other instrument panel functions can be re-used?

- Controller: I want to make sure that the equipment I buy is of decent 
quality. I need your recommendations for the controller: The Zilla 
controller is very expensive and seems to need special cooling. What do 
you think about the Curtis 1231C controller? Any other recommendation?

- DC to DC converter and battery charger: again, any suggestion?

- Motor adapter hub: The EV book "Convert It" strongly advises not to 
use the setscrew securing method for the hub. I have received a couple 
of proposals with setscrew hubs. What do you think?

- Clutch: some providers propose to remove the clutch; however, I am 
concerned about having to change gears while going uphill (and there is 
a hill to climb on the way back home). For me, it is not an option to 
stop in the middle of the road to change gear. Your thoughts?

- Should I keep the original power steering fluid cooling radiator? My 
SWAG is that with the very low heat generated by the electric motor 
system, there is no longer a need to cool the fluid. What do you think?


Thanks for taking the time to look at my questions!

Your responses may also help another resident of Maryland who has 
started the conversion of another Neon 2000. I will share your responses 
with him.

Michael
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